Professor Plonk

The low-down on the high spirits by Antoine Lewis.

If I shut my eyes, will I be able to tell whether I’m drinking a red or white wine?

As a matter of fact you could quite easily, and not only if you’re a sommelier or a very experienced wine maker. As a test of their knowledge, sommeliers have to identify wine that has been poured into a black glass, using only their sense of smell and taste. The casual wine drinker might not be able to uncover as much as a professional, but making a distinction between the two kinds of wine is not too difficult.

The difference between the two kinds of wine is a result of what grapes are used and how they are processed. Though red wines are made from red grapes and white wines from green grapes, it is possible to make white wine from red grapes. But it isn’t possible to make red wine from green grapes.

If you peel a red grape, you’ll notice that your fingertips get stained. That’s because the colour in red wine comes from the skin of the grape and the longer the unfermented grape juice stays in contact with the skin, the stronger the colour. To get white wine from red grapes, the skins are separated immediately after crushing.

While the colour is just skin deep, one of the crucial differences arises from the stems and seeds being retained in the production of red wines. Not only do these woody bits contribute to the richer, deeper and more complex flavours of reds, they are also responsible for the higher levels of tannin in red wines. Tannin, a substance found also in tea, produces an astringent, bitter and dry feeling in the mouth. It helps wine age and gives it a heavier body. Tannin is like the backbone supporting the diverse flavours of the wine. White wines are almost devoid of tannin and are dependent on higher levels of acidity to enhance their delicate flavours and provide them with a crisp, refreshing character.

Although the difference between a rich, tannic red and a fresh, crisp white is easily noticeable, it can get a little difficult when red wines are made to be drunk young and light. In this case, the aromas and taste of the wine can give vital clues regarding the type of grape used. Each grape, whether red or white by itself or when blended, will create a particular bouquet of smells. In general, white wines tend to have floral, citrusy aromas of green and tropical fruit such as muskmelon, lime, grapefruit, banana, apple and sometimes the petrol-like fumes of tar and plastic. Red wines have deeper, richer smells of earth and wood; of dark, stone fruits such as blackcurrant, blueberry or cherry; and spices such as cinnamon and clove.

Published in Time Out Mumbai November 14 2008